Archives for category: Tamron 90mm f/2.8

I haven’t been shooting for a long time (since March 2012). This time last year I would have joined on the bandwagon and go for event such as Floria 2012, Bon Odori 2012 to shoot them but I just can’t find the passion to shoot recently. I guess its because of one incident which happened in March this year.

My house was broken into!!

And they took all but one of my lens. I lost a Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8, Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8, Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8, Tamron 90mm f/2.8, a Lensbaby Composer and a couple of expensive filters.

They also took 4 of my hard disk which contained most of my documents, photos, things that I have collected for the past few years. Yeah… All the photos I took since 2006 is gone.

I was in a slump. It was a hard time to get by. I couldn’t believe that it was all gone. Cost-wise I guess I would have lost close to RM6000 that day alone. And it was after coming back from the CSS camp. Luckily I had my camera and my laptop out with me that day. If not the loss would have been even more painful.

Since then, I felt that the passion was no longer there, especially when others ask me to shoot photos. I still shoot every now and then but I can rarely find the joy of shooting anymore. I even gotten into a bad relationship with someone the day I lost my stuff because someone insisted I removed the photos of him from Facebook (acting like a child seriously @@). I gotten a phobia of leaving anything valuable alone now, and I bring my stuff everywhere I go to. I can’t imagine losing my laptop (with all my project data in it) or anything else. I got demotivated to do a lot of things (even my project) for a long while.

I’ve not told many about this, only those close to me. I had hopes getting the items back but still reality is that, this is Malaysia, you don’t really get back what you lost to thieves (which itself is a sad case). I also pray that nothing worse will come out of this bad experience.

Anyway. I have decided to type this here because a few days ago, while updating the previous post, I looked through the photos I took of Dogathon 2011, and most of them were good and it made me reminiscence the time I use to shoot. That when I told myself that I need to recover. I need to somehow get back into it again. Perhaps I have mourned long enough. So you might see some more photos from me in the future (hopefully).

I’m really thankful for the support I gotten in my time of slump though. There are people who were really understanding and I thank them for that :). I have also learned to be more careful I guess in leaving my stuff (although I still have the tendency to leave things everywhere) and am currently looking for a new place to move into (with possibly better security).

Meanwhile, here’s one of the photos I took during my slump (it was a CSS event and it was kinda hard to say no to shooting a CSS event)

It’s when I get photos like this that make me treasure photography more 🙂


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*Be advised that I initially planned to just show a few photos on this post but it turned into a ‘tutorial’ type of a post. I love photography as a hobby and whatever written below are my experience with macro photography. If I incorrectly describe some of the information, please do correct me. Thanks*

Shooting macro basically means shooting very minute things. When this mode is active you will be able to focus up very very close to the subject and take photos of it. Done correctly and you might see details of your subject which you won’t be able to see with your naked eye. For the point and shoot camera, macro mode is often designated by the flower icon. You should switch to it and try to focus up close on certain subjects and notice the difference. For point and shoot cameras, the amount of macro you can actually do is limited when compared to the DSLR.

~Look for this icon~

For DSLR users, you can shoot subjects in macro mode using a kit lens however to fully appreciate what your DSLR can do in macro mode, you might want to get into some macro dedicated accessories.

First off, we have the macro lens. These lens can be used to shoot as normal but are capable of focusing very close to your subjects. The idea using macro lens is quite easy. Fit it onto the DSLR. Bump the aperture to at around f/16 to f/32. And focus (I would suggest manually) on your subject until you get the desired sharpness. It might also be handy to have a flashgun around since using such small apertures will limit the amount of light entering your camera. Adjust your shutter speed as required. And use a tripod if necessary.

One of the more popular macro lens in the market will be the Tamron 90mm f/2.8. In fact I have one with me everytime I go on any type of shoots because it can be used as an alternative portrait lens.

Next, for budget photographers, a macro conversion lens can be an alternative. These lens fit onto the front of the kit lens (but be aware of the filter size since it can cause vignette if improperly fitted. The upside to the macro conversion lens is that, its a lot cheaper compared to a dedicated macro lens and its also a lot lighter to carry it outside. However, since it is a fit-on lens, you should never use Auto focus (which I wouldn’t recommend as well even with a macro dedicated lens). The auto focus won’t be able to focus accurately because the macro conversion lens is fit on in front of the camera lens. If you’re new to macro photography, it might really take some time to get used to using a macro conversion lens. I have tried out the Raynox Macro conversion lens before and it really requires a bit of practice to get use to it. But when done correctly, you’ll be impressed.

Alternatively, there’s the reverse macro rings. These allow you to use the reverse side of your lens to take macro shots. Apply the adapter ring on your camera, apply your lens in reversed on the ring and shoot away. Of course, you won’t be able to use the auto focusing and you will have to adjust your distance (move forward and back) to get the desired focus. These will most probably be the cheapest alternative (I haven’t really tried these before though).

~This is a reverse ring~

Lastly, there’s the close-up filters. Fix it on like how you would fix on your UV filter and you have a pseudo macro effect. These filters have +numbers on them by which the higher the number, the better the closeup effect. The downside of this will be that the filter size are fixed, so if you gotten 52mm filter size closeup filters, you might not be able to use them on 67mm size lens without additional accessories.

~Close up filters~

All in all, to be good in macro photography, you will have to remember these few points.

  1. Use a tripod if you have one. It might not be as flexible as you hope for it to be but it helps out a lot. Otherwise, use a fast enough shutter speed or bump up the ISO to compensate. When you are really close up to your subject, even the slightest move will cause blurriness.
  2. Use a small aperture to get sharp and in-focus shots. When you’re focusing on something which is so minute, the depth of field plane changes as well. So if you were to use a large aperture (eg: f/2.8), the sharpness plane is so thin that you might not get the focused area entirely sharp. If you’re able to, use the depth of field preview button. If you don’t know what is that, its time to read up on that camera manual.
  3. Use an external flashgun or ensure adequate lighting. While using such small aperture, you will definitely have a hard time getting your photo properly exposed. Adequate lighting will be key here.
  4. As always, take more than one photo. Its better to have a lot of ‘under-par’ photos and one nice photo rather than one lousy photo.
  5. Manual is better than auto. In macro photography, this is often true. Adjust the focus manually rather than to let the auto focus mechanism of the camera take over.
  6. Have fun.

*Note: All photos (except those in the slideshow) are taken from their respected websites*