Using shutter priority mode.
I don’t really have much to blog about nowadays and since the previous blog post on Macro Photography seemed to be informative, I thought I should follow up with another mini ‘tutorial’.
Shutter priority mode is the mode which is denoted by a ‘Tv’ icon in most camera dials. It allows the user to control the length of time by which the camera shutter is opened. Its when the shutter is open that the camera ‘takes’ the photo. Any movements done when the shutter is open will cause the blurred movement effects you might see in night shots. With some thinking, you will most probably figure out that to get a non-blurred photo, you will need a fast shutter speed so as to freeze the movements while to include movements into a photo, a slow shutter speed will be used.
Certain more advanced point and shoot cameras have to option for the shutter priority mode but most (if-not-all) DSLR will certainly have the mode. The shutter speed ranges from a slow shutter speed (by which the shutter opens for a longer period of time… eg: 1 second or 2 seconds) to fast shutter speed (it closes off faster… eg: 1/60… which basically means its shut off in 1/60 of a second)
Another important thing to note is that when the shutter is opened for a longer period of time, more light enters the camera and hence your photo will be more exposed than usual. And the same applies for a fast shutter speed time. This is basically why night modes have longer shutter speed compared to action/sports/kids mode… Because we need more light to enter the camera at night to make the photo better exposed. In the latter mode, we need a fast shutter speed to freeze the movements of the action/sports/kids.
I sometimes find people asking me, what shutter speed should I use? Generally whichever you are comfortable with. Of course, I would start with a fast shutter speed and slowly make my way down to a slower shutter speed to compensate for the change in aperture or ISO etc. But a rule of thumb will be to ‘Not use a shutter speed which is less than the zoom range of your lens’ (or something like that). Eg: If you are zooming at 55mm (for a standard 18-55mm kit lens), make sure your shutter speed is not less than 1/55 (or rather 1/60 because 1/55 don’t really exist) and most of the time, it should be good enough. You can always try to use less than the zoom range, but it will be entirely up to your skills in handling a camera, the VR (Vibration Reduction) or IS (Image Stabilization) ability of your camera and so on. Still… The safest way of using a slow shutter speed is putting it on a tripod or some flat surface.
I would always recommend you to take out your camera right now and play around with the Tv mode settings. Eventually when you’re used to it, you can go into taking panning shots, light painting and also some creative usage of shutter speed shots.
~Panning shots like the roller coaster ride above allows you to implicate movements in the shots~
And eventually, you will be able to do something like this:
~This was taken during my trip to Pangkor last year. The smooth water and sky are due to slow shutter speeds. I will make a post on how this photo was taken soon~
Till the next update, remember that the best way to learn is via hands on experience. Keep shooting.
Macro photography (and a couple of shots)
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*Be advised that I initially planned to just show a few photos on this post but it turned into a ‘tutorial’ type of a post. I love photography as a hobby and whatever written below are my experience with macro photography. If I incorrectly describe some of the information, please do correct me. Thanks*
Shooting macro basically means shooting very minute things. When this mode is active you will be able to focus up very very close to the subject and take photos of it. Done correctly and you might see details of your subject which you won’t be able to see with your naked eye. For the point and shoot camera, macro mode is often designated by the flower icon. You should switch to it and try to focus up close on certain subjects and notice the difference. For point and shoot cameras, the amount of macro you can actually do is limited when compared to the DSLR.
~Look for this icon~
For DSLR users, you can shoot subjects in macro mode using a kit lens however to fully appreciate what your DSLR can do in macro mode, you might want to get into some macro dedicated accessories.
First off, we have the macro lens. These lens can be used to shoot as normal but are capable of focusing very close to your subjects. The idea using macro lens is quite easy. Fit it onto the DSLR. Bump the aperture to at around f/16 to f/32. And focus (I would suggest manually) on your subject until you get the desired sharpness. It might also be handy to have a flashgun around since using such small apertures will limit the amount of light entering your camera. Adjust your shutter speed as required. And use a tripod if necessary.
One of the more popular macro lens in the market will be the Tamron 90mm f/2.8. In fact I have one with me everytime I go on any type of shoots because it can be used as an alternative portrait lens.
Next, for budget photographers, a macro conversion lens can be an alternative. These lens fit onto the front of the kit lens (but be aware of the filter size since it can cause vignette if improperly fitted. The upside to the macro conversion lens is that, its a lot cheaper compared to a dedicated macro lens and its also a lot lighter to carry it outside. However, since it is a fit-on lens, you should never use Auto focus (which I wouldn’t recommend as well even with a macro dedicated lens). The auto focus won’t be able to focus accurately because the macro conversion lens is fit on in front of the camera lens. If you’re new to macro photography, it might really take some time to get used to using a macro conversion lens. I have tried out the Raynox Macro conversion lens before and it really requires a bit of practice to get use to it. But when done correctly, you’ll be impressed.
Alternatively, there’s the reverse macro rings. These allow you to use the reverse side of your lens to take macro shots. Apply the adapter ring on your camera, apply your lens in reversed on the ring and shoot away. Of course, you won’t be able to use the auto focusing and you will have to adjust your distance (move forward and back) to get the desired focus. These will most probably be the cheapest alternative (I haven’t really tried these before though).
~This is a reverse ring~
Lastly, there’s the close-up filters. Fix it on like how you would fix on your UV filter and you have a pseudo macro effect. These filters have +numbers on them by which the higher the number, the better the closeup effect. The downside of this will be that the filter size are fixed, so if you gotten 52mm filter size closeup filters, you might not be able to use them on 67mm size lens without additional accessories.
~Close up filters~
All in all, to be good in macro photography, you will have to remember these few points.
- Use a tripod if you have one. It might not be as flexible as you hope for it to be but it helps out a lot. Otherwise, use a fast enough shutter speed or bump up the ISO to compensate. When you are really close up to your subject, even the slightest move will cause blurriness.
- Use a small aperture to get sharp and in-focus shots. When you’re focusing on something which is so minute, the depth of field plane changes as well. So if you were to use a large aperture (eg: f/2.8), the sharpness plane is so thin that you might not get the focused area entirely sharp. If you’re able to, use the depth of field preview button. If you don’t know what is that, its time to read up on that camera manual.
- Use an external flashgun or ensure adequate lighting. While using such small aperture, you will definitely have a hard time getting your photo properly exposed. Adequate lighting will be key here.
- As always, take more than one photo. Its better to have a lot of ‘under-par’ photos and one nice photo rather than one lousy photo.
- Manual is better than auto. In macro photography, this is often true. Adjust the focus manually rather than to let the auto focus mechanism of the camera take over.
- Have fun.
*Note: All photos (except those in the slideshow) are taken from their respected websites*
Fang Wen’s photoshoot (Malacca 7th-9th May 2010)
Thanks to the lovely Fang Wen for helping me out with my photography training. Definitely a good experience for me since my first one didn’t work out too well. I learnt a bit more during this shoot.
Here are some photos:
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Some of the night shots:
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And the best shots overall (I’m really loving these few)
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A few more things which I noticed was that
- Its better to have the person interact with something else. Eg: at the beach perhaps playing with the sand etc. This gives the picture more of a story rather than the simple ‘pose and smile’
- Don’t be worry to try out all sorts of different angles.
- Remember to set the correct white balance. I played around with the wireless flash for a bit and forgot that my white balance was on auto. And the results was horrible. Luckily I tinkered around with the white balance and got white balance correct for the night shots.
- Give your subject distance, take more than the face if possible. The body and its movement shows a lot of things.
- It might be good to have someone distract the subject to get more natural shots.
Good luck in your shoots 
Attending the IDERN 2010 seminar.
I’ve been attending this seminar called IDERN 2010 for the past few days. It’s the short form for International Doctoral Educational Research Network, bringing supervisors and postgraduate students from all over the globe to discuss about postgraduate studies.
In a lot of ways, I would have like it more if I had attended this before I started my PhD 2 years ago because it would have given me a clearer picture over how and what studying PhD would be like.
I like to quote one of the speakers who said
PhD- you are responsible for the independent research in the field while being properly supervised.
This means that you are responsible for everything you do from the first step onwards, not your supervisor. This particular responsibility I had experienced it first hand, be it being efficient to carry out my study or be it missing deadlines due to personal problems, everything was my responsibility, and I can’t say that it’s not my fault because everything that happen since that day 2 years ago is under my care.
Another particular thing which I just had to quote was this
In the beginning, you would know nothing, and your supervisor will know everything. After 3 years, you will know almost everything and your supervisor, almost nothing
Think about it.
Well anyway, I’ve learnt loads from the seminars held, from dealing with your supervisors to defending the viva. I won’t be sharing any here because it will take a lot of writing space.
Perhaps the only thing I would write about is this.
Postgraduate study is like your undergraduate study, multiplied ten-folds, add-in a few folds of stress and problems, subtracting all the help you may have gotten in your undergraduate years and you’ll find time as a fraction of what it used to be.
So be prepared, my dear juniors who are about to journey down this road. But do remember one thing though, please do have a life while studying because sometimes a pinch of fun allows for more efficient work.
Have fun studying
Here’s some other things from the seminar that I would like to share: (Sources are in brackets)
The secret life of the PhD student
You’re sitting at your desk ready to start writing; it’s 9.30 a.m. You think, “I’ll just check my emails for 10 minutes and then I’ll get started on my literature review.” You open up your email and find there’s one from your supervisor asking if your draft is ready. You quickly send it to the trash and check the next one. It’s from an honours student in your department saying they can’t find a particular reference and since it’s your field do you know where to find it. You think, “It’ll only take a few minutes, I’ll just do a quick check.” So you log onto to the library electronic journals. Eventually, with a sense of great satisfaction, it’s found and emailed off to the grateful honours student. It’s 10.15 a.m. “Well,” you think, “I may as well just get the rest of these emails cleared”; glassware not cleaned in lab yesterday – send back saying it wasn’t me; astronomical society bash tonight – send back saying sorry, can’t come; interesting reference from co-supervisor –send back saying thanks, and go look up reference – feel very satisfied when found, printed, stapled and put in pile with 40 other articles. It is now 11.00 a.m. “Well, it’s been a busy morning, surely it’s time for a cup of coffee.” You meet a few friends in the coffee room and chat about the latest techniques for grafting boils to blue tongued sleepy lizards. It’s 11.30 a.m. As it’s only an hour until lunch you think there’s not much point in trying to start the lit review now, so you organise some references and put them into Endnote. It’s 12.30 p.m. and, with a sigh of relief, you head off for lunch. At 1.30 p.m. you come back and now feel a little tired, so think ‘I’ll just do something a bit easy until I feel more motivated.’ It’s 2.30 p.m. and another PhD student knocks on the door and asks for help with calibrating her super-sensitive bio-liquid. You are really good at this so you help and, after all, she’s helped you with Endnote in the past. After this you rush back into your office. It’s 4.30 p.m. You’re late, so you shut down your computer, grab your bag and rush out.
Your supervisor walks past and asks you how your day was. You say, “Great – very busy, did a lot”, but you have to rush now because you’re late for a meeting of the Faculty Higher Degrees Completion Committee and you are its representative!(Kearns et al., 2008)
Do inform me if it’s inappropriate to post this here and I’ll take it down.
What is written in the secret lives of a PhD student is really quite true
And the second one is a comic by Jorge Cham which is also quite true.
Lol. Have an idea what’s postgraduate studies is like yet?
My journey with Esme [My D90]
Warning: Newbie giving advices, so not all info might be right. Do correct me if I’m wrong.
It was 2 years of training with my semi-pro digital camera before I decided to make the transition to using a DSLR. The transition was because I found that there were still a lot of limitations on a digital camera and on the contrary of my experience in a digital camera, I haven’t had much practice on a DSLR before I got mine.
I remember when Esme first arrived. I spent a few hours reading through the manual, understanding only parts of it before I started my hands-on on it. And a lot of things really seemed new to me. It really takes a while to get used to it.
I gotten Esme late November 2009 mainly because I was planning to bring her to Taiwan with me during my trip. I remember experimenting with Esme a few days before the trip, among which I went to Putrajaya to take some night shots [Which mostly turn out horrible]. Some of the photos are shown below:
Horrible!!! [Quite underexposed]
One thing which I really couldn’t get used to then was using the viewfinder instead of the liveview. [FYI: viewfinder is where you look through with your eye to see what you are taking photo of, and liveview is what you find on most digital camera LCD screen where the image you want to take photo of is shown on the screen]. This caused quite a problem because I totally lost my ‘balance’ as in I couldn’t make my photos look balanced. It’s either leaning towards one side or the other.
The photo looked tilted here.
And that caused a lot of cropping to get the images balanced. Even now, I still do a lot of cropping especially when things like that happen.
After that I became a bit conscious about the lens smudges and dust off the lens every now and then. especially how much a single lens cost so I went to read up on how to take care of lens and gotten myself a UV filter to put on every time I’m near water or near the beach. I’ve even gotten myself a lenspen to ‘clean’ the lens when it’s necessary
Then a few days before I got to Taiwan, I gotten a circular polarizing lens (CPL) filter which helps in making the skies bluish especially when it looks boring. It also helps in reducing reflections which really came in handy especially when I was taking photos in the aquarium and by the seaside. The only problem with the filter was that it’s full potential can only be unleashed when the sun is at a proper direction. It also did help a bit while I was taking photo out of moving vehicles as it reduces the reflections from the glasses. I guess I might be using it as a tone down filter also if I’d want to make river flows seemed smooth especially on sunny days since CPL filters darkens the exposure by one or two stops. Some better photos from Taiwan [even better might not be too good]
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The following photos were taken with CPL filter on. Notice the lack of reflections from the glass
In the end, I did get quite a number of nice photos from Taiwan but my framing and composition was horrible at that moment. Not to mention that there’s still a number of things I still couldn’t understand. So after the trip, I started reading a number of books on composition and tips and tricks on taking photography. I would really recommend Petersen’s Photographic Digital Photo Guide which can be found in bookstores in Malaysia. There are currently 5 volumes of this magazine out and the guide really helps a lot in teaching you framing, composition, exposure, taking shots of nature, lenses etc etc. Do grab a copy if you find one at a bookstore near you. There’s also another 1-volume magazine which teaches on basic photography techniques and some post processing techniques called Ultimate Guide to Digital Photography, 3rd edition.
Source: Petersen’s Photographic Digital Photo Guide
I was very much engrossed in reading up on photography for the next 2 months and while reading about that, I learned about the nifty fifty lens [50mm prime lens f/1.8] which was one of the cheaper lens which give good bokeh [Bokeh means how some lens can throw certain areas out of focus depending on where you are focusing at]. I’ve read about how potential this particular lens was and decided to give it a try. Bought it, and played around with it and learnt a lot of things after playing with it. Its so hard to get the focus right especially at f/1.8. Another thing which I failed to realize was how narrow 50mm was. Being a prime lens, you cannot change the zoom in it and so you’d have to adjust yourself and your subjects just to get a shot right [which frankly is what photographers should do]. And you’d have to stand very very far away if you want to take group photos. Very far away especially when the group was big. I found out about this while using it to take photos of the big large group during the CNY dinner. Failed photo below
I was standing quite far away when I took this photo and all I can see is still half of the people present. [Note to self: Don’t use 50mm prime lens to take group photos]
But the good thing about the 50mm prime is that with the proper settings you can get something like this:
Notice the bokeh
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The following shows just how powerful the depth of field of a 50mm prime lens can be at f/1.8
Focus on foreground…
and then
Focus on midground [the pillows] throw both the foreground and the background out of focus.
and finally
Focus on background [the plastic bags] throwing both the bottle and the pillows out of focus.
And with that, the possibilities are almost limitless. Imagine what a f/1.4 or an f/1.2 can do.
But it’s often very hard to get the focus right without proper practice. I’ve gotten spoilt photos because the focus was off. Imagine a photo with the eyes in focus but the nose out of focus.
Till now I’m still practicing with the 50mm prime lens.
After I gotten the lens, I decided to take back revenge on my failed first shoot at Putrajaya at night and gotten myself a tripod and this time with the proper knowledge, went for a Round 2 photo shoot session at night. Guess who won?
Sorry for the watermark but I really want to use it for some other purposes.
After that I noticed that at night it was hard to take photos of people at night so I invested in a hot shoe flash.
And I managed to overcome the darkness and played around with bounce flash [which is basically bouncing the flash off the walls to make more natural light and not use the flash directly on the subject] and filled flash [by which you flash in broad daylight to reduce the shadow effect produced by the unique features on the human face or by other things]. Also learnt to make a better bounce card as shown here.
I’ve learnt all this to prepare for the CSSUPM Annual Dinner by which I was one of the photographers. You can refer to this link to see the photos.
One of the nicer photos.
Even so, most of the photos are a bit overexposed since I was using Auto flash with the flash aimed at the ceiling, so it almost every-time gave out a full powered flash which overexposed the subjects. Will use manual controls to control the bounce flash power after this.
Also Joachim, a junior of mine who has more experience in the photography field also taught me about color balance, about how to maintain the proper color of what you saw. Very often we have seen photos taken under orange-ish light which cast a strong orange-ish color on the skin and this can be properly corrected by presetting color balance before taking the photo or do it during post processing. This became very useful and reading about this eventually lead me to learn about another feature in photography which is using spot metering. I really want to try some spot metering portraits soon especially shots that darken most of the face but keeps parts of it visible.
And finally I went for my virgin fireworks shoot with Esme by which a mistake on my part cost us better fireworks photos. But I will redeem myself in the next fireworks event I’m going to go to.
One of the nicer fireworks photo.
Thus is my journey so far with Esme, and I’ll be doing some more photo shoots with her to get more used to it.
Sometimes I get the feeling that, photography is not only a hobby, but a passion.
Fireworks at Putrajaya Balloon Fiesta 2010. [and some tips for fireworks photography]
I thought that I was very much prepared for photographing fireworks during the fiesta. I had done my homework, brought along a tripod, a wireless remote trigger, set my ISO to the lowest I can find, use bulb mode in shutter settings and still one very unfortunate change of plans caused me the nicer photos which I should be able to get, which was positioning.
I’ve asked the organizers where they are going to let off the fireworks at, and went to set up too close to the action. In the end the fireworks went off and flew directly above me. And I had to change my angle and shoot directly upwards. Should have stuck to my previous planning to shooting from a further away location.
Another problem which suddenly came was that the wireless remote didn’t trigger at all. I think it might be because I used live-view on the camera and with all the fireworks going on, it was unable to focus at a particular point so it didn’t trigger. Tried the remote trigger in a fixed place and it worked though. Perhaps should consider using manual [infinity focus] next time. Or I might want to get a cable shutter release instead.
Will definitely redeem myself in the next fireworks display [most probably in August during the International Fireworks Competition in Putrajaya]
Anyway here are the [very few] shots I took
A lot of people commented that this last shot looks like coconut trees @.@
Anyway some tips on photographing fireworks
- Use a tripod. Fireworks happen at night and if you won’t want to use hand held camera unless you can be static and not move even a bit during a period of 5-10 seconds. Place your camera on a sturdy tripod.
- For simple digital camera, turn setting to fireworks predetermined settings. If you don’t have that settings or if you want to be adventurous, use manual settings and do the following. Set your ISO to the lowest setting possible [this is important to make your photos sharp and noiseless, you won’t like to see grainy fireworks photos], set your shutter speed to around 5-10 seconds [this is very dependent upon the type of photos you would want. If you want the trials of the fireworks to seemed long then a longer shutter speed will take in details over a longer period of time. But do remember that increasing shutter speed will cause more light to enter and possibly cause overexposure as well. The photo below shows a very overexposed fireworks photo.]
- Use timer. This might be a bit tricky but if you can use set the timer to take the photo in around 2 seconds and then predetermine the moment the fireworks will be release and later take the photo, it will minimize the chances of shakes caused by pressing the shutter button.
- No flash. It won’t help. Really.
- And perhaps the hardest thing to do is to know how to frame the fireworks. It might be hard to actually predetermine where the fireworks will fly once they are up in the air so it may be a good idea to scout the location beforehand for a good vantage point [I fail at this in the above shoot]. A good vantage point will be a place where you can take the whole fireworks action. Perhaps from that point you can try to zoom [even though not recommended] to select out bits of fireworks which you want to take.
- Use a remote release [only apply to those with DSLR]. Press once for the camera to take the photo, especially when the fireworks starts to fly in the air. And press the second time to end the shot, preferably after you seen the streaks of light disappearing or after you are satisfied with your shot.
- Take loads of shots. You don’t really have to pay to keep clicking and snapping away. Keep taking photos. Even if most of them turn out bad, there will still be a few which are acceptable.
For more information on fireworks photography, do visit this site
Cheers and hope you enjoy taking photos as much as I do
5 tips to resolve an argument
I argued with a good friend recently until both of us left fuming in the end. The reason? A difference in thoughts and a minor misunderstanding. Those who truly know me will know that I stand very very strongly on what I believe in, be it friendship, love, relationship, trust etc. And I will defend very very strongly on those who try to stamp on my believes.
And we left fuming for a day. I found that even the minor things influence me quite easily when I get angry. The argument continued the next day because of a Facebook status update. [Funny right?]
Anyway, it was resolved in the end. It took a lot of patience but it reached that point in the end. And I found out that one must really comply to a few rules to settle an argument.
1. Never ever talk at the same time. [The resolution happened through FBChat as well; I started by asking her to give me a moment to talk. And everytime she interrupted, I spam ‘WAIT’ till she keep quiet.] Reason is that I realize that when both of us are chatting, none of us are actually reading what the other is typing. That’s no way to solve an argument. Also remember to give the other party a chance to talk and do not interrupt.
2. Be humble. Accept the fact that you CAN be wrong. That is very important. If you are wrong and you know you are, be humble and admit you are wrong. Say sorry and then try to explain what you wanted to say, but in a nice way. There may be times when you aren’t wrong at all but if the other party do not want to admit their fault, you shouldn’t force them to. Accept it if they do not want to admit their wrongs. Its either you apologize or you forgive. One party must be tolerant to either say sorry or forgive the other.
3. Do not use sarcasm or criticize the other party. Sarcasm and critics will just add fuel to the fire. Refrain from doing so. Most of us will tend to criticize and be sarcastic when we are angry. So I will suggest for you to take long deep breathes and keep your anger under control. And when one is angry they will most probably relate everything the other say as sarcasm or criticism. Keep your head cool.
4. There’s no such things as letting the fire cool down [unless you are talking years of cooling down]. Things will sure to ignite again every now and then so long as the misunderstanding remains. It may be a good idea to resolve the misunderstanding before it accumulates and another war of words begin. It’s a bit like Neyo’s Mad- And I don’t want to go to bed, Mad at you. So try to resolve the argument as soon as you can, but properly.
5. Make sure there are no interruptions during the resolution. Settle the argument before focusing on anything else. Give your full focus towards settling the argument.
I’ll make it simple with these 5 points first. It should be sufficient to resolve an argument [hopefully I’m not wrong or I’ll end up getting flamed here]
How do you post Pacmee messages on WordPress blogs?
:edit: Apparently you can just link Pacmee up to WordPress by clicking on the share button on the widget. The downside to this is that you won’t be able to put it on your sidebar but rather publish it as a post instead. But this is cool since you can just make that post a sticky one and your widget will be there always 
So how do you?
I’ve been trying to find a way to allow for micro-blogging where I’m able to blog from my phone.
The choices I have will be either using the JAVA based web browser and GPRS option on my phone, or… use Twitter…
What is Twitter you ask??? Check out www.twitter.com
Ok… The thing about Twitter is that its not local. To actually update your Twitter account from phones will be expensive (or I think it is) since you are sending your sms to a foreign number… So that’s a no can do.
But recently WordPress had added a new widget to the web based widget list which is a Twitter widget… (I love it so much)
But the problem still remains… The charges to send updates to my phone from Malaysia should be expensive… So I played around somemore…
And I went back to a local Twitter-like option called Pacmee
Now Pacmee is similar to Twitter except it charges you everytime you want to post something up. And one SMS update will cost you 5 cents (which I think is really a fair price). But since its local, the chances of WordPress actually coming out with a widget for Pacmee will be almost non-existence. So that was why I didn’t bother to use it before.
But I hadn’t realize one thing…
Recently Pacmee allows for updates of Twitter accounts using Pacmee…
And there is your answer
1. Register for Pacmee and Twitter
2. Log into your Pacmee web account.
3. Click on the update Twitter with Pacmee through SMS or MMS
4. Enable that option by inserting your Twitter account name and password into it.
5. Log into your WordPress.com blog
6. Go to your Dashboard, and then find the appearance option and then widget
7. Allow the usage of Twitter widget
8. And now the link has been done
SMS > Pacmee > Twitter > Your blog
Oh ya. Before I forget. Pacmee also has this
So you can do the same for your Facebook as well… Cheers
*Images taken for this post are not my property and all credits should go to Twitter.com and also Pacmee.com*
